Colorful stacks of novels and stories line the shelves of JF Books, an independent bookstore located in Dupont Circle. Visitors quiet down and find their seats inside as Stanford Senior Research Scholar Guoguang Wu begins a discussion. Conversation sparks as the participants cover topics from censorship in China to political ideology and cultural values. 

In 1997, Shanghainese scholar Yan Bofei opened Jifeng Bookstore in China, which eventually shut down due to government pressure. Yan named the store Jifeng Bookstore  — now known as JF Books — because “jifeng” translates to “monsoon” in English. He believed that the term, which refers to a seasonally changing ocean current, resembled the fate of modern China. Jifeng Bookstore quickly gained a strong community and expanded to eight stores across Shanghai, becoming a cultural landmark.

The liberal bookstore became a place for open expression and free discussion, promoting conversations about sensitive topics such as politics, constitutionalism and religion. It offered monthly seminars, bringing in different guest speakers and authors. In 2008, the lease for Jifeng’s South Shaanxi Road branch expired due to skyrocketing rental rates in China. Despite this, Jifeng Bookstore supporters and customers rallied for a “Save Jifeng” campaign in hopes of keeping the branch alive. Through community support, it remained open.

Current JF Books owner Yu Miao bought the business from Bofei in 2012, looking to continue the store’s legacy and preserve it as a center for open-minded intellectuals. Despite originally receiving a subsidy from the Chinese government in 2013, Yu was told that no further subsidy would be provided in 2014. Authorities began to pressure the bookstore to close, said JF Books store manager Hongyan Wei.  

“The back force is from the government,” Wei said. “For example, they would ask the library to cut off their electricity out of nowhere. They didn’t notify you first. But they give you the signal that it’s not welcome.”

Government pressure grew as authorities told commercial real estate owners not to rent to Jifeng Bookstore in rejection of their liberal, open-minded ideology. Yu received more than five rejections while searching for new locations. Within three years, only one store remained, located at the Shanghai Library Station. The sole Jifeng Bookstore continued to promote free thinking through lectures such as “The History of the Concept and Institution of Democracy,” and “The Dilemma of Globalization In the 21st Century.” However, between financial struggle and government pressure, Yu was forced to close Jifeng Bookstore entirely in 2018.

Chinese scholar Zhang Xuezhong told The South China Morning Post that the bookstore’s closure was not surprising in the wake of the Chinese authorities’ similar actions to control political ideology. 

“It has a negative impact on Shanghai’s image as an international hub, but the authorities are more concerned about political stability,” Xuezhong said. “They don’t want to see freer social or cultural events.”

Readers packed the store during its last days, saying goodbye, and the store held a Performance Art Festival during that time. Many customers wrote farewell notes, which are now displayed in the JF Books store in D.C. On the final night, even without electricity in the store, people gathered to sing, dance and read together.

“They brought the cards here, and then we put them on the mirror as a symbol of rebirth here, and also continuation,” Wei said.

On one farewell card, a patron wrote, “Every time I come to Shanghai, I always stop by this bookshop. I always find books that I like and it’s a very enjoyable experience. I hope this is a temporary leave. All the best to this bookstore.”

In memory of the store’s history in Shanghai, the branch also displays 16 picture frames along the staircase, capturing milestones. One picture depicts the first Jifeng Bookstore to open, and another shows supporters gathered in a dark room, reminiscing about the Shanghai branch’s last day.

Later in 2018, after the bookstore’s closure, Yu and his family moved to the U.S. On Sept. 1, Yu opened the non-profit JF Books on Connecticut Avenue in Dupont Circle. JF Books holds frequent book talks and gatherings, carrying on the tradition of Jifeng Bookstore. 

“We mainly [do] book talks and also talks by scholars, mainly on Asia, China issues, and US, China, Taiwan, Hong Kong relations,” Wei said. “We’re trying to get more Asian-American writers like Rebecca Kuang.” 

Upon entering the store, customers will find three unique floors. The main floor holds books primarily about China, Hong Kong, Taiwan and Japan, written by Asian and American authors in Chinese and English. The second story contains many children’s stories, and towards the back of the second floor, customers can sit and read at tables and chairs in a cozy nook. The basement level has second-hand books, including many famous Chinese novels.

Yu told NPR that he hopes people are moved by the stories, novels and discussions in JF books.

“When we attend lectures in both Chinese and English, we meet old and new friends,” Yu said. “I want to host literary salons so people can connect, talk and find support — a place to build spiritual connections.”