Junior Nikhil Gupta is currently representing the United States at a debate workshop in Seoul, Korea, as part of the World Schools Debating Championships (WSDC) program.  

DMZ – Nov. 8 at 2 p.m. (12 a.m. EST)

Today we visited the border between North Korea and South Korea, known as the demilitarized zone, or DMZ. It was probably one of the scariest, and yet one of the most powerful trips I have ever been on.

Before even going to the DMZ, we had to read up on the dress code, which prohibits any provocative or obscene shirts, clothing that “has no sleeves or reveals the midriff” and open-toed shoes. If someone violates these rules, they are left outside while everyone else passes the border (and let’s face it, the border between North and South Korea is not the ideal place to be abandoned).

Once we were inside, the true adventures began. First we walked through a tunnel built by North Koreans connecting North and South Korea. This was one of the many tunnels they built in an attempt to storm the capital of Seoul during a time of heightened war. While South Koreans have only discovered four tunnels, they estimate that another 20 were created. Of course it might have been easier to hear the tour guide if I had the ability to move my head–the low ceilings of the tunnel left me stuck in an 80 degree bow. But, at least I can say the tunnel truly had a lasting effect on me, even if it was turning me into a hunchback forever.

We also went to a formal observatory only a few hundred meters from the official North-South border, giving us a peek into northern territory. Unfortunately, rain clouds in the morning left a heavy fog that greatly limited our view–on a clear, sunny day, you can actually see North Korean farmers working in the fields. But we were able to see Korean soldiers marching along barbed-wire fences, and a North Korean guard post at the top of the hill. Excitedly, we all pulled out our cameras to capture what we could, only to be escorted to a designated photography area by military personnel. And of course, we were delighted to discover that the “photo line” was a few yards from the observatory ledge, completely blocking any view of the demilitarized valley before us. So, with no other options, we followed the advice of our tour guides and focused on the natural beauty and wildlife of the DMZ.

Yes, you heard me correctly. In an attempt to attract tourists to the sight, the South Korean government has begun marketing the DMZ as an environmental conservatory, a place where unique species of wildlife come together. Well, you can imagine our confusion when we found out. Pictures of chipmunks next to barbed wire. The representation of barbed wire as the stem and leaves of a flower. They went all out. While I think their efforts are noble, it’s very clear that this marketing choice was simply the wrong one, evoking more laughter from tourists than sympathy

In the end, I am not going to remember the DMZ for its swallowtails or squirrels, but for its symbolism of the fight for unification of two fighting governments. But one thing is for sure–I’m certainly going to remember it. So congratulations South Korea, whether or not it was through the ways you intended; mission accomplished.